China: the bad (part 2/2)

In my previous post, I waxed lyrical about all the wonderful aspects of being in China. These are, of course, all true: in many ways, China has been a marvel and has opened my eyes to certain ways of seeing things, as well as providing a variety of scenery, experiences and culture unlike any other country I have visited in my travels.

However, I would be lying if I attempted to suggest that my visit to China was entirely positive, or without issue. For me, as a westerner, there have been quite a lot of elements that I might term ‘culture shock’, and I hope to detail some of them here in order to give a balanced and honest account of my time spent in China.

But first, the usual spiel – none of the following items are intended to be in any ways racist or objective. I intend them as criticisms that I have about my time travelling in China (as a solo traveller, I might add) and reflect my own cultural biases and experiences more than any sort of definitive judgement about the good and bad aspects of the country. I do not intend to label all the Chinese people as a single entity, though I may generalise for effect and efficiency. If you disagree, I welcome your feedback, though, as I say, this list is formed from my own experience.

⁃ ‘Bad’ manners: Perhaps the most immediately obvious to a foreign tourist is that what is considered to be ‘rude’ here is wildly different. Many Chinese will think nothing of pushing someone out of the way to get in front of them, chewing with their mouth open or slurping a drink, yelling loudly in a crowded public space, cutting a queue or hocking up a mass of phlegm in an almost-melodramatic manner before spitting loudly onto the pavement. I have adjusted to the majority of this over my time here, though I’m not sure I can ever manage to not wince a little when I hear someone dredging their lungs and gobbing on the floor.

One of the milder pleas for public order.

⁃ Spatial awareness: this is a very personal gripe for me, and it often annoys me about westerners as much as it does when I’m in China. However, owing to the prevalence of technology available to the Chinese at their fingertips (through phones, games and wechat), many people are almost invariably gazing down into the palms of their hands as they go about their day. As such, they tend to list lazily around the pavement or walkway, bump into people and stop in the most inopportune of places while they finish their level/text/video (including places like the top of escalators, train doors, ticket barriers, road crossings and on stairwells). I’m sure they don’t mean to be rude or vindictive, though the sheer frequency with which it occurs makes my blood boil.

One of the few times that the Chinese obsession with their phones amused, rather than infuriated, me.

⁃ Food: whilst tasty and varied, the vast majority of food available in China is almost always fried, oily or incredibly spicy (and sometimes maybe all three). As a consequence, the adverse effects this diet is having on my western gut, skin and waistline are something of a concern. Admittedly, I’m not overly limited when it comes to the food available, but there are also a vanishingly small array of purely vegetarian options, not to mention the problems one might have if they had allergies (owing to the vagaries of translations). In addition, squeamish diners might well have issue with the fact that heads, entrails, feet and fat all feature quite freely and heavily in the local diets, where almost every part of an animal is used and enjoyed.

A chicken foot. No big deal.

⁃ Translation issues: I will admit: I’m not fluent in Chinese. I can read a few characters and my embarrassingly small skills in the language mainly stretch to asking someone how they are and pleasantries. Nevertheless, I have found it frustratingly difficult to navigate around sometimes, as there is a general lack of transliteration. (Note: I don’t expect everything to be translated, simply written in Roman characters so that those who cannot read Mandarin Chinese have a chance of understanding.) in places like train stations, malls and information boards, transliteration seems to be somewhat hit-and-miss; sometimes available and sometimes not. I can’t imagine I’m the first person to have this problem, and while I appreciate that the national language is Chinese, there are also many people in the world (like me) who are completely unable to read the local lingo due to it being non-alphabetical. Without transliteration, therefore, problems like working out which way to go or whether a building contains a restaurant or not become somewhat magnified.

Debatably, the most complicated Chinese character. It reads ‘biang’.

⁃ ‘Security’: although I have come to become a little less anxious about it, at first, the constant presence of police, army, security (private, civilian and volunteer), constant security checks and almost ubiquitous CCTV camera and microphone coverage is a little overwhelming. This is without mentioning the curtailing of information available to the Chinese through the government’s blocking of many news outlets, google, Instagram, Facebook, Twitter, YouTube and WhatsApp. (Yes, yes, yes – I know there are VPNs to get around these, but that’s beside the point.) All in all, I have felt a certain suspicion in China – a watchfulness – that has never let me feel completely relaxed and comfortable.

Even in this idyllic scene, you are being watched…

⁃ Pollution: there is no way around it – some Chinese cities are HUGE. They stretch high into the sky and spread out as far as the eye can see, sprawling monsters swallowing up the country in an effort to keep up with the demands of a population that is currently nudging on 1.5 BILLION. However, with these buildings and roads and expressways comes an awful lot of pollution; sometimes nothing more than a haze, restricting views and blotting out the blue of the sky, though sometimes a lingering, festering smog that makes it hard to breathe and, no doubt, causing respiratory misery for millions upon millions of Chinese civilians. The Chinese government is taking steps to combat this – investing in renewable energy, limiting access to motorised vehicles and promoting recycling – though sometimes it seems like too little, too late.

What a difference a day makes: a skyline complete with smog…
…and on a clear day.

On balance, then, would I recommend China for a visit? My answer is yes – things I found difficult were, primarily, because I wasn’t prepared for them. However, knowing the extent of the culture shock you may face might help to relieve the negatives. Alternatively, take a friend/partner/stuffed toy to moan to when you (inevitably) have a ‘China moment’.

China: the good… (part 1/2)

For the last month, I’ve been in China, visiting the various different monuments and regions in an effort to know this country a little better. Due to the lack of a reliable internet connection, I have not been able to keep up with posting about my adventures here. However, in an effort to make up for lost time, I thought I would contribute two entries on my month in China.

For ease and balance, I have decided to split these two posts into ‘good’ and ‘bad’ aspects of my travels in China. In truth, I have found this month a very challenging and difficult period of travel (for reasons I shall cover in the next entry), though for now I would like to comment on all the positive aspects of my time in the Middle Kingdom.

[The usual caveats apply: this is a personal list, not an exhaustive one. It is not meant to cause offence. If ever I refer to ‘the Chinese’ I simply mean to generalise for ease and legibility; I do not mean to lump all Chinese people together. If you disagree with me and my experience, well, good for you.]

⁃ Food: in keeping with something a theme of this trip, I thought I would start with the food! Chinese food, like all the food so far in Asia, is very cheap! Meals (aside from occasional western indulgences) rarely cost more than 50 yuan (about £6) and there is a great variety available. A lot of it is delicious, though a gripe of mine would be that it seems to be almost invariably fried or else very oily.

Beijing Duck
A variety of delightful Chinese dishes
Spicy, Sichuan-style hotpot

⁃ Travel: getting around the country, and within cities, is cheap and efficient. I think I haven’t paid more than 5 yuan (around 60p) for a metro trip, which lasted a grand total of around an hour. Bullet trains linking the cities are punctual, efficient and comfortable, allowing me to travel the 1000km from Beijing to Shanghai in a little over 5 hours!

⁃ Shopping: I can’t say that one of the main reasons I came to China is the shopping, though for anyone so inclined, China is a form of paradise! Huge, towering malls occupy almost every corner and avenue, filled with a variety of shops and outlets. Of particular note are the ‘genuine fake’ shops, which sell versions of famous products at a fraction of their actual price. For instance, I managed to pick up a pair of converse that are identical to the real things for a paltry £12.

A section of Nanjing Road, Shanghai’s shopping Mecca

⁃ Tourism: China contains many different cultures and an expanse of history and tradition that is perhaps unrivalled anywhere else in the world. In this one country, I have seen the Great Wall, the Forbidden City (and the many other trappings of an imperial past), the Terracotta Army, the towering skyscrapers of Shanghai, temples, monuments, lakes, mountains and ancient villages. There is a huge array of restaurants, bars and clubs and no shortage of new places to visit, things to do or regional delicacies to try.

The forbidden city, Beijing
The Temple of Heaven, Beijing
A section of the Great Wall of China
The view from the Bund, Shanghai
Lantern festival, Nanjing
The terracotta warriors, Xi’an
Still houses, Chongqing
Pandas at the Chengdu breeding centre

⁃ Variety: being so huge, China is home to a vast array of different landscapes, cultures and climates. Although I have just mentioned the enormous extent of the tourism possibilities in China, I though I would comment specifically on the variety of climates. In this short month I have experienced the suffocating smog of Beijing and Shanghai, the rolling plains around Nanjing, the deafening roar of the mighty Yangtze River around Chongqing, the misty hills of Sichuan and the arid climes of Xi’an, built on the edge of a desert. And this is only to start; deserts, mountain ranges, beaches, jungles and tundra are each available in this vast and varied country.

An intricate bonsai garden

Misty mountains, Sichuan province

Mountains (and the wall) to the north of Beijing

⁃ Amusing translations: sometimes referred to (disparagingly) as ‘Chinglish’, sometimes I can’t help but laugh at a bad translation. For the Chinese, using English seems a very cool thing to do (typing this, I recall having curtains that featured Chinese characters in my youth, despite having no clue what they meant) and so it features everywhere. Sometimes the language is utter nonsense, sometimes it is almost spot-on and sometimes produces amusing hybrids. Menus, I have found, provide the greatest source of amusement, owing to the technical difficulties involved with translating cuisines, especially dish names.

⁃ Tech integration: more than anywhere else I have ever been, technology is integrated into the daily life of the Chinese. The cynic in me would say that this is so the government can more effectively keep stock of its populace, but it remains a marvel nonetheless. Wechat, China’s answer to WhatsApp/facebook/instagram/twitter, provides a platform where Chinese people can communicate, research, advertise, play games, pay for food, tickets and travel and provide certain kinds of verification. Coming from the north-west of the U.K., where it is a recent novelty to be able to pay with a contactless bank card on a bus, this is really quite the novelty.

***

However, travel in China is not all gumdrops and rainbows; but I’ll cover he negatives next time.

Jeonju and Busan

(Note: although I am now in China, the internet here is quite fickle and so I’ve only just been able to secure a connection good enough to post this!)

After the bright lights of Seoul, I wasn’t sure how other cities in Korea would compare. Sure, I knew they’d be smaller (and I had an idea that the food would be just as delicious!) but, not being particularly well up on Korean culture, could expect little else.

First up for Jeonju, hailed as the ‘home of korean food’, and home to a stunningly complex maze of traditional Korean houses (‘Hanoks’).

Wandering this maze of quaint alleyways and charming courtyards, I was struck by just how picturesque it was (to my knowledge, Jeonju was spared the destruction of the Korean War, and thus these were authentic). Compared to the hustle and bustle of Seoul, this was a whole world away.

As ever, Korean teenagers roamed around dressed in the traditional costumes and, coupled with the first blossoms of spring, made for a wonderful setting in which I could just get lost for a few days. (I shan’t was too lyrically about the food, having covered that in the prior post.)

Following Jeonju, it was on to Busan – the Manchester to Seoul’s London (by which I mean smaller, cheaper, more welcoming and more charming).

Busan is home to a varied and cosmopolitan centre, though also plays host to the UN cemetery for the Korean War. Busan, being in the far south-west of the peninsula, never fell to the north during the war, its history becoming quickly an inextricably linked with that of the war.

The cemetery was a moving tribute to the thousands of soldiers from a variety of countries that died in the war, some of whom are buried in this soil, but all of whom are commemorated here.

The park in which it was set was beautiful and serene and was a fitting tribute to the many souls who lost their lives in this brutal conflict.

The refugees who fled the fighting elsewhere were quickly housed here in winding mountaintop villages, some of which now function as their own attractions. The ‘culture village’ is a charming and beautiful space, replete with the usual delicious korean food, costumed locals and charming decorations.

Busan is also host to a very mountainous landscape, allowing for breathtaking views over the city and surrounding landscape. During one walk, myself and two friends managed to find ourselves somewhat stranded on a mountaintop, though the views more than made up for it!

Busan is also on the sea and, during the summer months, welcomes thousands of tourists from Korea, China, Russia and further afield. Admittedly, it was a little too cold to enjoy the seaside while I was there, but it was still beautiful!

It was with a heavy heart, then, that I left Korea to go to my next destination. However, if China proves to be half the location Korea has been, I’m sure I won’t be disappointed!

Korea – food, glorious food!

It is no secret that I love korean food. The mixture of sweet, salty and spicy is absolute heaven and I frankly couldn’t get enough of it throughout my time in Korea. (Posts have been a bit sparse, principally because I’ve been stuffing my face; sorry – I’ll remedy that as soon as I can!)

As I sit here at the airport in Busan awaiting my flight to China – and the inevitable culinary adventures it brings – I thought I’d take you on a quick stroll through some of the delicious korean food I’ve encountered so far.

Bibimbap

Bibimbap means ‘mixed rice’ and that’s effectively what it is. Rice, topped with a variety of vegetables, meats and other deliciousness, served alongside the delicious kimchi (in the red tray) and the inestimable guchuguang red pepper sauce (being applied liberally in this photo!)

Also of note here is gimbap, effectively a sushi roll with a mixed filling of egg, vegetables and pork.

Korean Fried Chicken

A wonderful upgrade on fried chicken, this version is coated in korean spices and the red pepper sauce, giving the whole dish an unbeatable mixture of crunch and spice. I’m frankly gutted I only had it once.

Korean BBQ

Koreans love their meat – it’s almost impossible to be vegetarian here – and when it is cooked over fire before your very eyes, then served with a variety of dips and sauces, how can you not immediately love it?

This is pork loin on the ‘que, alongside mushrooms and onions. The red sauce is samjang – a sweetened version of the red pepper paste ideal for dipping. Think somewhere between tomato ketchup and sweet chilli sauce. Yum.

(I don’t know what is in the little pot in front of me, but it was delicious. I simply refer to it as ‘magic sauce’.)

Kimchi soup

It’s kimchi, it’s meat and it’s a spicy, fiery broth. What’s not to love?

Backbone soup

Far more appetising than it sounds, backbone soup is great hunks of meat and bone simmered in a beef stock with vegetables and spices. Getting the meat off the bone with chopsticks and a spoon was easier said than done, however, and was ultimately achieved by a mixture of repetitive, mindless bashing motions.

The little bowl is a horseradish oil and was absolutely wonderful, if very very spicy!

Pig’s foot

Perhaps more appetisingly called ‘pork knuckle’ (though effectively the same thing), this trotter was thinly sliced and served in a mustard sauce alongside cucumber and red pepper jellyfish (yes, you read that correctly).

As ever, kimchi and broth made appearances, alongside a spicy fish cake (the slab of something in red something else).

Pork soup

A Busan speciality, pork soup is just that – pork in a broth with vegetables, garlic and chilli. Of particular note is the kimchi (of course!) and the pink blob, which is actually a pile of incredibly tiny shrimp! They are used to add salt to the dish and – believe me – they are amazingly salty!

Mandoo

Mandoo, or dumplings, are very similar to Japanese gyoza and just as tasty! These were filled with pork and vegetables, though pretty much any filling can be substituted. Also seen here is more gimbap, the korean take on a sushi roll.

Makgeolli platter

Not a meal per se, but a collection of side dishes to go alongside makgeolli, or korean rice wine. The stuff is served from a teapot and decanted into bowls, where it is merrily slurped (it tastes somewhere between white wine and Greek yoghurt which, oddly, isn’t that unpleasant!)

Of particular note here is the fermented stingray (top left), octopus (top centre), acorn pâté (top right), kimchi pancake (centre), sea snails (left centre), whole crabs in red pepper (centre right), whelks (bottom right) and pig cheek (bottom right, rectangular shape).

Silk worms

Yep, you read that right. These little critters are a bar snack out here, which is just as well, as you’d need to have had a few drinks just to pluck up the courage to taste them.

Actually surprisingly tasty – crunchy with a savoury flavour, a little like beef flavoured monster munch.

… and there we have it. Who knows what I’ll find to eat in China!

Seoul, South Korea

After another exhausting journey, I landed in Seoul-Incheon airport in South Korea. All told, the journey wasn’t too long – a little over seven hours on a plane – but the time differences played havoc with my body clock. I got onto the plane at 2am India time and we had only been in the air for an hour or so before the sun started to rise, at which point my body decided that sleep was overrated.

Daegu, a city in South Korea

Compared to India, South Korea is calm, quiet, ordered and cold. The temperature is barely tipping above freezing, but the spicy local food helps out a lot with that. As a long time fan of the sweet-yet-spicy Korean food, this is quite the boon for me.

Quite possibly my favourite element of this wonderful cuisine is kimchi, made from cabbage leaves fermented in chilli and vinegar (it tastes far better than it sounds!).

The stuff on top of the rice at the front is kimchi

Another culinary treat was the Korean barbecue, where great hunks of meat, kimchi and vegetables are fried in front of you, then wrapped in lettuce leaves and devoured. It’s a good thing I’m doing so much walking to combat all this food!

Seoul was almost completely destroyed in the Korean War during the 1950s, and so much of the city is modern, reminding me of the futuristic cityscapes of Japan. The road network is extensive and well maintained and there is a fantastically comprehensive metro network that puts any other I’ve used to shame.

Despite the reasonably recent destruction, South Korea has ploughed money into rebuilding the many fantastic palaces and fortresses. In the clear yet freezing conditions, they make for some rather dramatic and romantic scenes.

The pavilion at the main palace in Seoul, where the king would entertain guests and dignitaries

One of the many palaces in Seoul, featuring locals dressed in traditional ‘hanbok’ costume

All in all, I’m loving my time in South Korea. Let’s see if I feel the same after I’ve had a peek inside the much less prosperous neighbour to the north.